Wednesday 22 May 2013

What Katie Did: A Vintage Lingerie revival

2008 was the year I discovered 'What Katie did'. I had read cover to cover,  Dita Von Teese's debut Burlesque/fetish Book way back when it was published. Here I discovered Bettie Page. Bettie being the original muse for Ditas raven hair and pale skin look, she and Bettie inspired my search for Vintage or vintage reproduction lingerie. I scoured the internet. A lot being US stockists. Then I came across 'What Katie Did' and images of the Bettie Page 'looking' Pin Up model Bernie Dexter modeling WKD's Maitresse bullet bra collection. 'WKD' was the first reproduction line to recreate and re-produce the bullet bra in the UK.


For me, It was all about wearing a full  lingerie set. I was inspired by the glamourous women of the glamour ages, women that wouldnt be caught dead without her matching bra, high waist briefs, girdle and suspenders; holding up a pair of sheer fully fashioned seamed stockings.  This was a girl I wanted to be, and still aspire to be.
Its all about making that extra effort, everyday, even if your the only person who knows what silky secrets your wearing underneath your dress. The difference in how you feel in yourself is priceless. When I found 'What Katie Did' online I was in love with their garments and niche products, also the fact the small boutique was based in London was a dream come true. I wanted to see these little beauties in the flesh. 

At this time they didnt have a huge collection, but there was the soon to be worldwide bestseller classic 'Maitress' Bullet bra collection in both black and white. This signature collection was the launch of the revival 'Bullet bra', and will be worn by pin up girls and seen in high fashion editorials/magazines in years to come.

Their boutique was tucked away in a mini arcade amongst the vintage flee markets on Portobello Road. I knew where i was heading, as I planned my route. It was a tiny boutique but all the more boudoir-like, 
an Aladdins cave of pretty things. Each garment was beautifully made and intricate with authentic detail: Corsets, waist cinchers, girdles, suspender belts, brassiers, briefs.  All hung on satin hangers, all side ways, facing forwards to greet you as you walk in. They were grouped together by product and the array of colours where of blacks, whites, peaches and nudes. (see image below)
image source: www.weebirdy.com 

I saw the Maitresse soft cup Bullet Bra in Black. With Bettie Page as my muse, I had to try this infamous WKD revival on for myself.
The bra is made out of  100%  satin polyester (slight sheen) Non stretch, with a unique spiral top stitching with large straps (for comfort) and a large elasticated strap at the centre front just like the real deal. The shape has an authentic lift, as described online 'gently coaxing your breasts into the perfect 1950's conical shape' with thorough support even without wiring. 

"We firmly believe that due to our strict quality control process and the consummate skill of our seamstresses (it can take up two years to perfect the intricate spiral stitching required for each bra), our original version is still the best."  www.whatkatiedid.com

When i tried it on I fell in love. I adored the snug fit, the shape and suprisingly the comfort. Unlike your regular bra (which sometimes feels like the girls rely on a lot of support and push up required  for support and lift) This bra however, supports each one seprately even without the uncomfortable wire. At the same time it created an uplift and a shape so unique I could only describe as a siren-like silhouette under my top.
I felt ultra feminine and curvascious wearing Maitress. The bra is like a mini piece of architecture (which of course  bra's are) but even without wiring and any hard structure, It still doesnt lack in its glamourous appeal. 
As for the shape it creates, wow... that unique and unmistakable shape  truly is like no other silhouette a modern bra could create. Not to mention its rather cheeky 'look at me' points.  I was blown away at how "pin -up" I felt wearing it.  I Tried my top over this,  the shape was amazing, and uncanny as seen worn by all the vintage pin up sweater girls like Marilyn Monroe's and Diane Dors of the 1950's.

Note: This Bra definitely needs to be teamed with highwaisted briefs to complete the authentic vintage look.


The sales assistant was so helpful. It was almost like we where on the same wave length, talking about our love for vintage things, Bettie Page, and how hard it is to get hold of vintage lingerie and reproduction clothing.
She showed me there was two ways I could wear this soft cup Bullet bra. She gave me two cone inserts to try for enhancement. The Maitress bra is indeed soft cupped, but the sponge cone inserts where perfect to create more support and structure. I tried both looks and they really did create two looks for me. The inserts are to be purchased seperately for £5.00 but i most certainly would purchase them with this bra purely for that extra option.
Without the inserts the bra and the shape created is more natural and subtle. With the cone inserts the bra was more Dramatic and much more pointed. I would say, the cones work even better for smaller chested girls too. Back then, I was a smaller (a size A cup) I didnt have much to fill the brassiere, therefore the inserts where amazing.
Note: You can purchase these on  WKD online shop in the accessories section. I have also tried on the padded version. which i must admit visually is just stunning and beautifully made, But much more extreme and dramatic in terms of shape. Id reccomend wearing this one alone rather than underneath clothes unless your after a rather cheeky and over the top shape, Very Jean Paul Gaultier May I add. 
(above: Bernie Dexter models Maitresse bra that i purchased image via froufroufashionista.blogspot.com

I also bought my first pair of fully fashioned seamed stockings too. Stockings where neatly displayed with all the other accessories near the till point, which also consisted of burlesque pasties, hair clips, garter straps, etc.
They also have a counter of Besame: vintage style reproduction cosmetics range. I love this brand so much. The compacts and packaging as well as the colours and shades are just stunning.

The WKD site is worth looking at to see all these above products and also corsetry, Sleepwear, swimwear, etc. Theres also a new clothing (vintage reproduction) range by Pin Up Model 'Bernie Dexter' and shoes by 'Miss L Fire'.
The choice since my first visit has grown so much, and the WKD franchise has exploded all over the world, and has now rightfully taken on the US market opening boutiques . I Think portobello is on the cards for my next trip to London. Think its time to save up for a full lingerie set and a 'baby' corset.

xxx 





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