What Katie Did: A Vintage Lingerie revival

2008 was the year I discovered 'What Katie did'. I had read cover to cover,  Dita Von Teese's debut Burlesque/fetish Book way back when it was published. Here I discovered Bettie Page. Bettie being the original muse for Ditas raven hair and pale skin look, she and Bettie inspired my search for Vintage or vintage reproduction lingerie. I scoured the internet. A lot being US stockists. Then I came across 'What Katie Did' and images of the Bettie Page 'looking' Pin Up model Bernie Dexter modeling WKD's Maitresse bullet bra collection. 'WKD' was the first reproduction line to recreate and re-produce the bullet bra in the UK.

For me, It was all about wearing a full  lingerie set. I was inspired by the glamourous women of the glamour ages, women that wouldnt be caught dead without her matching bra, high waist briefs, girdle and suspenders; holding up a pair of sheer fully fashioned seamed stockings.  This was a girl I wanted to be, and still aspire to be.
Its all about making that extra effort, everyday, even if your the only person who knows what silky secrets your wearing underneath your dress. The difference in how you feel in yourself is priceless. When I found 'What Katie Did' online I was in love with their garments and niche products, also the fact the small boutique was based in London was a dream come true. I wanted to see these little beauties in the flesh. 

At this time they didnt have a huge collection, but there was the soon to be worldwide bestseller classic 'Maitress' Bullet bra collection in both black and white. This signature collection was the launch of the revival 'Bullet bra', and will be worn by pin up girls and seen in high fashion editorials/magazines in years to come.

Their boutique was tucked away in a mini arcade amongst the vintage flee markets on Portobello Road. I knew where i was heading, as I planned my route. It was a tiny boutique but all the more boudoir-like, 

an Aladdins cave of pretty things. Each garment was beautifully made and intricate with authentic detail: Corsets, waist cinchers, girdles, suspender belts, brassiers, briefs.  All hung on satin hangers, all side ways, facing forwards to greet you as you walk in. They were grouped together by product and the array of colours where of blacks, whites, peaches and nudes. (see image below)

image source: www.weebirdy.com 

I saw the Maitresse soft cup Bullet Bra in Black. With Bettie Page as my muse, I had to try this infamous WKD revival on for myself.

The bra is made out of  100%  satin polyester (slight sheen) Non stretch, with a unique spiral top stitching with large straps (for comfort) and a large elasticated strap at the centre front just like the real deal. The shape has an authentic lift, as described online 'gently coaxing your breasts into the perfect 1950's conical shape' with thorough support even without wiring. 

"We firmly believe that due to our strict quality control process and the consummate skill of our seamstresses (it can take up two years to perfect the intricate spiral stitching required for each bra), our original version is still the best."  www.whatkatiedid.com

When i tried it on I fell in love. I adored the snug fit, the shape and suprisingly the comfort. Unlike your regular bra (which sometimes feels like the girls rely on a lot of support and push up required  for support and lift) This bra however, supports each one seprately even without the uncomfortable wire. At the same time it created an uplift and a shape so unique I could only describe as a siren-like silhouette under my top.
I felt ultra feminine and curvascious wearing Maitress. The bra is like a mini piece of architecture (which of course  bra's are) but even without wiring and any hard structure, It still doesnt lack in its glamourous appeal. 

As for the shape it creates, wow... that unique and unmistakable shape  truly is like no other silhouette a modern bra could create. Not to mention its rather cheeky 'look at me' points.  I was blown away at how "pin -up" I felt wearing it.  I Tried my top over this,  the shape was amazing, and uncanny as seen worn by all the vintage pin up sweater girls like Marilyn Monroe's and Diane Dors of the 1950's.

Note: This Bra definitely needs to be teamed with highwaisted briefs to complete the authentic vintage look.

The sales assistant was so helpful. It was almost like we where on the same wave length, talking about our love for vintage things, Bettie Page, and how hard it is to get hold of vintage lingerie and reproduction clothing.
She showed me there was two ways I could wear this soft cup Bullet bra. She gave me two cone inserts to try for enhancement. The Maitress bra is indeed soft cupped, but the sponge cone inserts where perfect to create more support and structure. I tried both looks and they really did create two looks for me. The inserts are to be purchased seperately for £5.00 but i most certainly would purchase them with this bra purely for that extra option.
Without the inserts the bra and the shape created is more natural and subtle. With the cone inserts the bra was more Dramatic and much more pointed. I would say, the cones work even better for smaller chested girls too. Back then, I was a smaller (a size A cup) I didnt have much to fill the brassiere, therefore the inserts where amazing.
Note: You can purchase these on  WKD online shop in the accessories section. I have also tried on the padded version. which i must admit visually is just stunning and beautifully made, But much more extreme and dramatic in terms of shape. Id reccomend wearing this one alone rather than underneath clothes unless your after a rather cheeky and over the top shape, Very Jean Paul Gaultier May I add. 

(above: Bernie Dexter models Maitresse bra that i purchased image via froufroufashionista.blogspot.com

I also bought my first pair of fully fashioned seamed stockings too. Stockings where neatly displayed with all the other accessories near the till point, which also consisted of burlesque pasties, hair clips, garter straps, etc.
They also have a counter of Besame: vintage style reproduction cosmetics range. I love this brand so much. The compacts and packaging as well as the colours and shades are just stunning.

The WKD site is worth looking at to see all these above products and also corsetry, Sleepwear, swimwear, etc. Theres also a new clothing (vintage reproduction) range by Pin Up Model 'Bernie Dexter' and shoes by 'Miss L Fire'.
The choice since my first visit has grown so much, and the WKD franchise has exploded all over the world, and has now rightfully taken on the US market opening boutiques . I Think portobello is on the cards for my next trip to London. Think its time to save up for a full lingerie set and a 'baby' corset.

xxx 

For Luna: Vintage style Swim and beach wear

For Luna www.forluna.co.uk

I was flicking through Vintage Exploree Magazine, and I came across an online boutique called For Luna. Their online capsule collections are all revived vintage reproduction swimwear. 

They have based their whole brand around classically Authentic, vintage designs of onepiece swimsuits and Bikini's, by Esther Williams. They are all figure hugging and beautifully flattering pieces for a beach goddess, whom we all long to be. At approx £59.95, they are a must investment fot your suitcase this summer.

They have an array of the same one piece swimsuit pattern in different colours and patterns, with an alterneck, rouched and gathered motifs on the curves with a mock skirt effect. They also do a couple of two piece swimsuit bikinis, also with alterneck ties and thrilly skirt briefs. Patterns include classic poker dots, gingham, daisys, anchors, cherries and animal prints. Nautical colours of white, navy, blues and reds. Some oranges, emerald green, hot pinks, purples and blacks.

xxxxx Lara

What Katie Did: This Seasons New pieces Marlene & Coco

Marlene (above)  Red and peach toned Bullet Bra, Girdle,  Suspender belt, and briefs.
The Marlene Brasiere is a similar design to WKD's classic and bestselling revival The 'Maitrese' Bullet Bra. With its signature spiral stitching. Marlene is a two colour panelled with a sheer peach organza and then rich red satin. The 'Marlene' is, of course inspired by The ultimate femme fatale and German Screen Siren, Marlene Dietrich.

image www.whatkatiedid.com

Coco collection:

Im so intrigued by this unique design, a revival of whats called the 'Catherdral' Bra. Elegantly Deco and  architectural in design with the signature top stitching. This coco brassiere creates a perfect and authentic 1950's lift with strong curved lines in refelction of the art deco era. Again, like Marlene. It comes in two tone pannelled colours, of organza and black satin with tripple over wiring and underwiring. Complete the look with the high waist brief, suspender belt and seamed stockings. 

Click on the Link on my page to check out their amazing collection of vintage lingerie, corsets, stockings, swim wear, Bernie Dexter Dresses and Besame Cosmetics. 

 A

Crikey! Its Vintage: At Killerton

The Bullet Bra: To the point history into the brassiere a vintage sirens lingerie staple

After the world war 1 corsetry in America was deemed unpractical and uneconomical. Within the 1920's corsets became shorter and provided less support for the bust, therefore creating a whole seperate garment purely to support the breasts. The 1920's saw a fashion of the flapper. A look that endorsed the more streamline, boyish silhouette. Curves where not deemed fashionable. The brassier at the time was just light support bandeaux style thats purpose was to flatten the breasts. A socialite of New York city approx 1913 was a huge influence for women by creating a bandaux bra by tying two hankicheifs together with ribbon. 

above: A slightly earlier example of a brassier: 1893 worn with a corset

Russian imagrant  Ida Rosenthal, A New York Seamstress worked along side husband and boutique owber Enid Bisett. They discovered a break through with womens Bras and this was that not all women would fit in the same bra size and invested their business into crateing brassiers for all ages and sizes of women. Their business titled Maiden form was a deliberate ironic contrast to the androgynous silhouette. Their aim was to turn the bandeaux into a more structured bra that would flatter a womens shape whilst creating support under their clothes. 

Ida Rosenthal: A Seamstress, entrapaneur and Break through influence on womens bra's in 1928 New York. co owner of Maiden Form. image credit:www.ottawacitizenstyle.com 

below: Maiden form patented design

The 1930's was a break through decade for brassier technology. The term bra was used more often by the younger population of girls. 

Within the 1930's a company S.H Camp and company created the alphabet coding for bra sizes. ie. A, B , C &D. several companys took on this formuler towards the end of the 1930's. The 1930's introduced the waist band with the adjustable hook and eye features in the 1930's. Also the technology with materials opened lots more doors for choice in fabric, elastication, patterns and colours.   For the flatter chested women, bras could now be designed with some padding to enhance their bust and cleavage. The lingerie industry became a fast growing and profitable industry within the US. Major cities sold ranges in department stores. 

Jane Russell 

The pointed bust became extremely popular throughout the 1940's. Hollywood glamorised this look, and pin up girls aka "sweater girls"  and young starlets such as  Marilyn Monroe, posed in their tight fitted knit sweaters with their structured and pointed assets. The second world war in fact influenced many of womens beauty products, and where created in relation to the war. The Bullet bra also known as the torpedo bra was a reaction from the war. The look was to create for womens bust to be more conical and pointed in shape for an exagerated, wholesome and veluptuous apperance.  Jane Russel was famed for her assets and like the scene in The Aviator, inventor Howard Hughs was a huge fan of her and the technology behind the bra. The 1940's saw underwired bra come into fruition, hence the bra was becoming more architectural in design. In the 1950's, the conical bullet bra was still highly popular and still was glamourised by huge hollywood stars such as Marilyn Monroe, Diana Dors andLana Turner. etc. The list goes on. Bras of this kind where advertised frequently in womens fashion and lifestyle magazines. The Bullet bra could also be a fetishized look, as seen worn in black  by the queen of fetish pin up's 'Bettie Page'. The 1950's also saw the bullet bra have spiral top titching and insertable cups for women to go up a cup size if desired. 

above: publicity shot for lingerie brand and bullet bra designer 'Maiden form' 1950's

The fashion industry of the 1990's saw Madonna wear Jean Paul Gaultiers creation of the cone/bullet bra for her Blonde Ambition tour. Although extremely exagerated where JPG designs, its evident he was inspired bu the vintage classic. Keeping with pretty peach silks and the top stitching. He incooperated the bullet bra into a corset body suit. He approaches this look for almost every collection he creates to this day. A more recent design, is a full body corset dress worn by Dita Von Teese in powder blue silk. 

Authentic reproductions where revived by What Katie did, especially the bullet bra starting with their 'Maitresse' bra. Other Vintage influenced brands such as 'Kiss Me Deadly' create pretty vintage looking collections with a modern twist.  Dita Von Teese successful  collection called Von Follies have beautiful examples of top stitching brassiers similar to the torpedo bra whilst of course catering to the modern women.

Over the past years I have noticed a re-birth of Bra's with top stitching details found in Marks and Spencer's with a range of colour pallettes featuring nudes, pinks and creams for their limited edition vintage collections. They seem to re-approach this idea of the vintage revival.  I have also seen the likes of designers Stella McCartney and La Perla create beautiful vintage inspired bras. Brands from the 1930's are still thriving with the likes of Gossard and Triumph. 

(above) The Met Museum collection

(above) Dita Von Teese Models in a Bettie Page style shoot weraing a bullet bra, garter belt girdle, high waist briefs and fully fashioned stockings by Photographer Chas Ray Krider

(above) Triumph Lingerie