Tuesday 9 April 2013

Vintage Androgyny

Marlene Dietrich

I'm really into the androgyny look at the moment. I got inspired by this post when looking at Dolce and Gabbana's RTW 2013 spring/summer collection. I Especially love the contrasting silhouettes and themes from their signature figure hugging siren dresses to vintage menswear.....20's/30's menswear especially. think classic old hollywood heart throb or gangsters in their zoot suits and spats. Dolce and Gabbana's models worked boy like qoiffers with perfect smooth complesion,  classic suiting, bowler hats, brogues and winkle pickers, tapered high waisted trousers or peg leg slacks, very reminiscent of madonnas look in the video 'Open Your Heart'. Think about clever contrasts of uber masculine with hints of feminity.  Theres loads of ways you can mix this look up, and you can apply feminity and flamboyancey within the style as much as you want, or not. Androgyny look always looks nice with a lick of red lips and matching red nail polish or rouge noir. Perfect complexion with beautiful eyebrows and blush and bright coloured nail polish (see Below Dolce and gabbana runway photos). Dolce and Gabana teamed the look with fitted tailoring in patterned or plane suiting in blacks and greys. lace appliques on white shirt collars, lace ties, etc. key pieces are braces, white shirt, tie, socks, tapered slacks, low or high waisted and brogues. Use classic menswear style etiquette and contrast accessories with plane block coloured suiting (pinstriped, plain or floral) and pattern ties, ankerchiefs, socks. I think poker dots look stunning. check out madonnas look in 1992. Vintage Vanelizm blogger created three looks (below) from more formal and beautifully contrasting masculinity and female glamour, to a more urban relaxed androgynous look x


Although German actress Marlene Dietrich didnt wear suits all the time,  Most iconic images of her are when she is suited up in androgyny style silhouettes. however not forgetting her perfect make up, and finger waved hair. Her mix of seductive masculinity has since been a muse and inspiration to fashion designers decades after.  Her style helped revolationise womens fashion in the 1930's as well as Katerine Hepburn. It was all about the perfect combination...
"Although Dietrich opted for all-man attire, she kept her hair and make-up glamorous and feminine with set blonde curls, arched eyebrows and red bowed lips". says instyle.co.uk
The true provocation, however, was to have Marlene Dietrich wear men’s clothes. The breaking of this taboo was inconceivable in Hollywood’s moral climate. In MOROCCO, Marlene Dietrich wears a black tailcoat, thus epitomizing an incalculable, artificial gender, equally attractive for men and women. She is shown kissing a female visitor of the night-club when wearing that outfit, entirely laid-back and self-assured. It is hardly understandable nowadays what kind of turmoil was created then by this scene, even more so because Marlene Dietrich had meanwhile taken to appearing in men’s clothes outside the studios as well. What Hollywood was still ready to tolerate as a star’s whim incited outbursts of indignation in New York and, above all, in the American heartland, says fan website biography on marlenedietrich.com

(above) Vintage Vandalizm: http://vintagevandalizm.tumblr.com/


my polyvores: http://slaramichelle.polyvore.com/
www.vintagevandalizm.com
http://vintagevandalizm.tumblr.com/
www.instyle.co.uk
www.style.com
www.fluevog.com




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