The perfect neo-vintage eye make up: The search for the perfect eye palette

( above: idda Van Munster by Angelica Photography 

When it come to an authentic vintage eye shadow. Always keep with a neutral palette with matte finishes. Although you can play around with blues, greens, smokey khols and pastel hues, perfecting the 'fault-less' naturals and nudes you cannot go wrong. Heres some inspiration: 

Make up artist and blogger Mynxii White caught up with Dita von Teese at the Obliphica International beauty show NY last month, Mynxii asked Dita,

Mynxii: You are such a strong style and beauty icon. What PERSONAL beauty advice can you give to your fans? 

Dita: My best advice is practice makes perfect. You cannot expect to become great by just trying a new hair style a few times. You have to really practice at everything. Some of the greatest hair dressers and makeup people I know didn't even go to school. They are self taught, and that goes a long way. It shows that you can learn how to do it yourself too with a little patience and time.

*http://mynxiiwhite.buzznet.com/photos/mynxiiwhiteinterview/?id=68492621

re-creating and perfecting vintage make up is an art and as Miss Von Teese says 'practice makes perfect'. Dita does her own make up for her shows, public appreances and most of her editorial work. because she has mastered her look down to an art for years. Of course the cosmetics are essential tools to create this look. 

Of course girlies thats the best part. Make up shopping! yey!   Whichever your budget you can create the beautifully smooth vintage eye. Where to start. NUDE shadow pallettes! Along with you liquid liners and red lipstick. A pallette loaded with nudes, peches , browns and neutrals is a  must weapon of choice for your make up bag. 

I love Urban Decay's 'Naked' Pallette. Its a perfect collection of natural browns, golds, peaches, nudes and silver. They also give you several options of both matte finishes, velvet sheens and shimmers. 

They have two large Pallettes (NAKED and NAKED 2) and Naked 'Basics'. 

I have the first edition in the brown velvetine casing. I adore this so much. Its been well over a year since I purchased it and its still going strong. Its been Urban Decays bestseller and has since its release three years ago been selling like HOT CAKES! This first edition palette is based on warmer tones of yellow golds and rusty browns (comes with a mini postion primer).

I personally prefer the second edition 'NAKED 2'. its more based around cooler tones. The second edition comes in a gorgeous metal case (comes with travel size Lip-Junkie lipgloss in Naked) with more silvers and minks, nudes, ballerina pinks, peaches and pearlescent ivorys. Because im uber pale this works better for me. NOTE: Both pallettes come with a stunning 'Good Karma' shadow brush.  

The original NAKED palette is more suitable for girls with olive or darker skin. As for 'Naked 2', this would be better suited  for the fairer skinned girl with cool tones. However, both pallettes are amazing investments, and you really cant go wrong with either.

Its really all down to preference if you like your golds, or your cooler pinks. Whats so amazing about these two pallette's is that you can create and perfect graduated/layered vintage eye looks for both day and night. You have your array of matte shadows in pale ivorys and flesh colours, with pinks or peaches to smudge into your crease and socket.  Mink and rusty browns or silvers and khols for a more exagerated sultry hooded eye. Theres a combination of shimmers too for a more youthful pretty impression you have mixes of pale pinks, peaches and ivorys with irridescent glimmers.

Urban Decay also recently released 'NAKED basics'. So if you want a more compact and 'to the point' pallette. Its cheaper and half the size, but has the focal shades for building the definition for the vintage eye. All in Matte textures. so this is the ultimate no mess everyday option. Either way any of these products are an investment cos they last for aaaaaaaaaaaaages! 

For the NAKED (first edition: see in below image) my fave shades are 'Virgin' is a pale and blendable ivory flesh shade perfect as a base all over my eye lid, socket and brow bone. 'Sin' although a shimmer is a gorgoeus satin shimmer. Its a pale peachy shade thats a perfect first shade to use on the crease and perfect for shade graduation with the darker colours.  Then depending on whether i want a warm look or an ash look, 'Dinomite' is great ash brown perfect as the darkest colour to brush into the socket and blend to create definition. Also 'Hustle' is nice to use for the dark option. Its more of a rusty red brown with a satin shimmer. Its like an art really and so much fun to faff about with all these shades. you really are spoilt for choice. As Dita Von Teese says its all about 'practice for perfection'. 'Toasted' is great warm shade to blend in the outer lid/brow bone. Its a technique i like to do to create a more feline eyelid lift, just a simple triangular flash of colour and blend, creates an instant siren (Jessica Rabbit gaze) The only thing missing from the first NAKED palette is an highlighter. I feel 'virgin' is not light enough or shimmery enough to create this highlight effect for the brow bone. NAKED 2 has several highlighter options. So i may have to save my pennies. 

The later in the day, the darker the shadows you go. I think you cant go wrong with just two shades of pale matte ivory mixed with a darker nude shade to define the socket and an highlighter for the brow and a slick of black eyeliner and a fringe of mascarer. I always keep my eye lid light especially towards the eyelashes. so when slicking on my liquid black eye liner, the contrast of the shiny black makes it pop.   Sometimes when im in the mood, from the NAKED pallette I put a flash of 'sugar', or 'half baked' right on the centre of my eyelid. The dot of gold almost adds a flash to my eye lids when i blink. The application technique i like to start with concealer all over the eye area, or a primer 'eye shadow primer potion' by UD or boing by Benefit. Then a matte pale shadow. layer up the colours from pales to darks the darker towards the socket. blend with brushes or fingers. i use both. i think your fingers are the best for creating natural finishes, as Bobbi Brown taught me in her books. ;) and brushes for blending. My favorite Liquid eyeliner to create a perfect cat eye is Mac's 'Liquid Last'. 

Alongside Urban Decay many brands have joined the line, to create the ultimate boudoir eye collections with natural hues for the perfect siren/vintage look. Kat Von D has created some gorgoeus eye shadow pallettes for her tattoo make up range, including a naked palette. 

Benefit has created some gorgoeus vintage focused beauty palettes. One bestseller in particular is a contour eye shadow palette called 'Big Beautiful Eyes'. Benefit also recently lauched a 3 part collection of the ultimate "worlds Most famous Neutrals" eye shadows. The shadows are presented in your typical Benefit style book. with a mysterious siren on the front. Encased inside these books are 4 shadows and two bottled crease-less cream shadows. The books come with 'Tips N Tricks' cards with daytime or playtime looks. Ive not tried these myself, however the colours look amazing and any one of the three would be perfect to create a vintage look. The easiest nudes palette looks like my fave. check out some great reviews and swatches can be found from these sites and blogs: 

http://karahorchata.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/review-benefit-worlds-best-neutrals.html

and 

http://www.beautezine.com/benefit-world-famous-neutrals-eyeshadow-kits-review-photos-swatches/

From Highstreet to High-end. Dolce and Gabbana have created the most beautiful compact eyeshadowcollections aptly named the 'Ruby Collection' special edition jewel compacts at Harrods. Of course in a perfect nautral palette of 4 shades as seen worn by Marilyn-esque Scarlette Johanson. Brands such as Tom ford, YSL, Lancome, Dior, Georgio Armani and many luxe cosmetic brands have their own nude pallettes. 

1. Dolce & Gabbana 'Ruby Collection' in Femme Fatale 100 2. Illamasque: Neutral Palette 3. Tom Ford: Beauty Eye Color Quad 4. Lancome: Colour Design All in One Browns-Neutrals 5. Yves Saint Laurent: Ombres 5 lumieres in Tawny 6. Georgio Armani: Eyes To Kill Quad Eye shadows 

(my polyvore account: http://slaramichelle.polyvore.com/)

One of my favorite blogsteress and vintage model/make up artist is IddaVan Munster. Shes stunning and Her examples of a perfectly executed vintage make up is hands down the most inspirational and beutiful. Especially her signature cat eye eyeliner . Shes so inspirational to me: check out her blogspot: www.iddavanmunster.blogspot.com

Youtube has a wealth of make-up tutorials for eyeshadows and vintage make up techniques. There's my obvious faves like Lisa Freemont Street and Cherry dollface. Do check out PixiWoo, a make up artist duo have 100s of make up vlogs on youtube. Fom uncanny celebrity looks to costume make up efects and of course classic vintage techniques and styles. 

Do check these out. See Their Elizabeth Taylor tutorial (above) They do a nice blendable eye shadow look on this one. However delve into their library of videos and subscribe. http://www.youtube.com/user/pixiwoo?feature=watch

image source(above): jessieblush.tumblr.com

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Dita Von Teese: Third Perfume 'Fleur Teese'

Keep an eye out for Dita Von Teese's third perfume 'Fleur Teese'.

I adored Dita's original debut Perfume in the black bottle. Being in the UK, i only managed to get hold of the first one byt the time the second perfume 'rouge' was released. 

Now the third fragrance is in the pipeline to be released named 'Fleur Teese'. The French name 'Fleur' instantly signifies the title of her favorite perfume she used to wear everyday since she was a teenager 'Quelque Fleur'. A couple of years ago, her then boyfriend's mum also wore this uber expensive perfume, which was the last straw for Dita to take the plunge and create her own perfume.  

Now the one perfume has turned into three. 

Looking like a day perfume, the top notes are casablanca lily and Sambac Jasmine refreshed with bergamot. floral notes of iris and lilac. the floral elegant notes are sarounded by seductive notes of sandle wood and cedar. Dita has always said that she wanted to create a vintage inspired perfume thats glamorous and seductive at an accessable price for any women. One thing is to stir away from fruity perfumes if you want a true vintage fragrence. Always go for a frgrence based aorund florals, spices, vanillas and woods. 

Vintage Androgyny

Marlene Dietrich

I'm really into the androgyny look at the moment. I got inspired by this post when looking at Dolce and Gabbana's RTW 2013 spring/summer collection. I Especially love the contrasting silhouettes and themes from their signature figure hugging siren dresses to vintage menswear.....20's/30's menswear especially. think classic old hollywood heart throb or gangsters in their zoot suits and spats. Dolce and Gabbana's models worked boy like qoiffers with perfect smooth complesion,  classic suiting, bowler hats, brogues and winkle pickers, tapered high waisted trousers or peg leg slacks, very reminiscent of madonnas look in the video 'Open Your Heart'. Think about clever contrasts of uber masculine with hints of feminity.  Theres loads of ways you can mix this look up, and you can apply feminity and flamboyancey within the style as much as you want, or not. Androgyny look always looks nice with a lick of red lips and matching red nail polish or rouge noir. Perfect complexion with beautiful eyebrows and blush and bright coloured nail polish (see Below Dolce and gabbana runway photos). Dolce and Gabana teamed the look with fitted tailoring in patterned or plane suiting in blacks and greys. lace appliques on white shirt collars, lace ties, etc. key pieces are braces, white shirt, tie, socks, tapered slacks, low or high waisted and brogues. Use classic menswear style etiquette and contrast accessories with plane block coloured suiting (pinstriped, plain or floral) and pattern ties, ankerchiefs, socks. I think poker dots look stunning. check out madonnas look in 1992. Vintage Vanelizm blogger created three looks (below) from more formal and beautifully contrasting masculinity and female glamour, to a more urban relaxed androgynous look x

Although German actress Marlene Dietrich didnt wear suits all the time,  Most iconic images of her are when she is suited up in androgyny style silhouettes. however not forgetting her perfect make up, and finger waved hair. Her mix of seductive masculinity has since been a muse and inspiration to fashion designers decades after.  Her style helped revolationise womens fashion in the 1930's as well as Katerine Hepburn. It was all about the perfect combination...

"Although Dietrich opted for all-man attire, she kept her hair and make-up glamorous and feminine with set blonde curls, arched eyebrows and red bowed lips". says instyle.co.uk

The true provocation, however, was to have Marlene Dietrich wear men’s clothes. The breaking of this taboo was inconceivable in Hollywood’s moral climate. In MOROCCO, Marlene Dietrich wears a black tailcoat, thus epitomizing an incalculable, artificial gender, equally attractive for men and women. She is shown kissing a female visitor of the night-club when wearing that outfit, entirely laid-back and self-assured. It is hardly understandable nowadays what kind of turmoil was created then by this scene, even more so because Marlene Dietrich had meanwhile taken to appearing in men’s clothes outside the studios as well. What Hollywood was still ready to tolerate as a star’s whim incited outbursts of indignation in New York and, above all, in the American heartland, says fan website biography on marlenedietrich.com

(above) Vintage Vandalizm: http://vintagevandalizm.tumblr.com/

my polyvores: http://slaramichelle.polyvore.com/
www.vintagevandalizm.com
http://vintagevandalizm.tumblr.com/
www.instyle.co.uk
www.style.com
www.fluevog.com

Leeds Vintage Fair 2013: 3rd Feb

Date: 3rd Feb 2013 Location: Leeds Town Hall

Ive been going to this Vintage fashion fair in the middle of Leeds City centre for a good three years now. they hold approx three shows per year, and i just adore going. Held in the ornately grande town hall the floor is packed on a sunday morning with vintage lovers of the 1900's all the way to the 1980's. even pieces earlier than the 19th century. The fair is always attended by the same old faithful faces who run their stalls. In this fair you will find stalls of 1940's-1960's beauty products, lipstick tubes, powder puffs and compacts. Stalls selling vintage hats dating from the oppulant 1940's tilt hats, hair combs, jewelry, hat pins. jewellry trees with cascading pearls and gems. Rails and rails of vintage pieces lovingley collected by their vintage enthusiasts. Lingerie and silk dresses, oodles of fur coats (all vintage of course) floral tea dresses, knitwears and more modern retro pieces with 60's and 70's prints, wripped and re-styled jeans into hot pants. Baby and dolls clothes, the occasional vintage re-productio hats and dresses, even a stall dedicated to the vintage gent. Leather cases, ties, tie clips, cufflinks, cigarette and pipe cases and Oxford brogues. One stall in particular i always find stunning features one of pieces of costume pieces or genuine garments from the tudor periods. all hung up on display for all to see. 

Its such a shame this was to be the end of an era, that the fair will no longer be held in the Town Hall.  A stall owners expressed to me that they are very sad to see the fair leave the beautiful town hall and its wonderful atmosphere. Im well sad about this, as it was such a wonderful atmosphere and buzz in the town hall when the fair took over, and if anything added to the vintage flare. The fair will be moved to The Queens Hotel (30th June 2013) Do check it out. 

The Vintage Pin Curl set

I've been doing my hair in Pin Curl sets for a few years now, and for any of you gals that are new to getting into the vintage style, I would say the Pin Curl set is the ultimate authentic vintage curl. Its a must authentic technique to perfect for vintage /pin up look. Whats so wonderful about this technique, is once you have perfected it; it is the most sturdy curl you can get, without that curling iron or heated rollers that damage our hair. Also, It creates a perfect foundation for creating scultpural hair dos, such as up-do's,  victory rolls, faux bangs and pompadour’s. Its very hard to look at these images below, and make sense straight away, but it gives you an idea, so i recommend these Youtube vlogger Lisa Freemont street or PinupDollAshleyMarie. The book vintage hairstyling is wonderful also, which i will talk about in a bit, but video tutorials make this less tricky. do check these girls out. Their videos pretty much helped me perfect the pin curl set, as well as many their vintage hair and make up looks. Freemontstreets videos especially are great to watch coveing many vintage hair style and make up tutorials. Her vlogs are Really inspirational and easy to follow.

Rita Hayworth 

Pincurls are a perfect technique for building and creating structured hairstyles as seen in above images: victory rolls, chignons, pompadours, faux bands, rat rolls.

my tips:

Setting lotion is key with the pin curl set. Id reccomend starting on dry hair. Spray the hair piece by piece as you roll with a mix of water and setting lotion. you can do a the set on just washed wet hair, but this can make your hair extra frizzy and will take longer to dry. If your planning on a pin curled hair style before an event or whatever. Prep the style early on the day before, and wear all day and all night to allow the set to dry thoroughly. Vintage Ladies wore scarfs over her pin curl set. Purchase sheer/chiffon square head scarfs. They look so pretty wrapped around your curls and tied in a cute bow on top. you can get them in tons of colours. combing out is key for the pin curl set, and it comes with tons of techniques do watch freemont streets vlogs, she shows you how to brush out your hair to make it sleek and smooth by brushing the hair length round yoour hand. The direction you set the curls will determine what waves you will achieve when dry and brushing it out. to create the s-wave effect you. each row of pin curls should be rolled opposite ways. It may seem complicated to start with, but do check out ‘The Vintage Hairstyling’ book and Lisa Freemont Streets videos.

I reccomend this book called Vintage hair styling: Retro styles and step by step techniques by Lauren Rennells. This book is the bible for vintage hair styling, and all us vintage lovers and rockabilly betties swear by this book. All the hairstyles and techniques are beautifully illustrated in easy to steps. She also shows you how to use different methods of curling, such as sponge rollers, hot irons, hot rollers, satin pillow rollers, back combing and victory rollin. You can purchase this edition from amazon.com, amazon.co.uk and ebay. E.g. Below. I will review this book later on xxx